Café au Soleil; Espresso in the South of France

“Come on, don’t you ever stop and smell the coffee?”
~ Justina Chen Headley, North of Beautiful

Atlas, Ink and Espresso | August Feature

A confession: I am a slow morning girl. All I want to do is be cozy, wrap my hands around a ceramic mug, and slowly come back into being. None of this tossing back a to-go beverage during my commute.

I want to stop, and sip, and savor. I want the soft hiss of an espresso machine, the clink of porcelain, the whir of pen on paper. Time to think. To journal. To read. These are the things, the lifestyle, that I strive for. And the South of France? It’s got this exquisite laissez-faire attitude in droves.

In France, especially the south, things aren’t rushed. Rather they are appreciated and savored. The time it takes is the time it takes.

And that is just how I want to start my day.

Finding Espresso in Southern France

Here are some café suggestions from my searches and travels. This is not an exhaustive list, to be sure, but rather a jumping off place to whet your appetite and get your caffeine fix.

In Aix-en-Provence, begin your morning at Hôtel de Caumont, part of the Caumont Centre d’Art in the Marazin district. Their terrace overlooks their lovely gardens and it’s the perfect starting point before perusing Aix’s numerous outdoor markets (and believe you me – Aix knows how to do an outdoor market). For a less touristic café try Le Gaul ois on the other side of old town. Le Gaulois is a bar/tabac/brasserie tucked in next to Cathedrale St. Sauveur. It’s a fabulous place to sit in the courtyard, journal, and pretend you are a local. Bonjour! Je vais prendre un café au lait s’il vous plaît.

Further south, in Nice, try Brume Coffee Nice. This shop has a cozy vibe wooden decor, plants and recipe books. Or visit Ca fé Fino with its rounded white washed concrete and delectable pastries; either is a perfect way to start your day. Or you could choose any number of the sidewalk cafés along the Cours Saleya on market days to watch the merchants and the people. P.S. don’t forget to stop and smell the flowers.

For a small town vibe along the Côte d’Azur stop in Cassis and visit any number of the outdoor cafés along their cozy port. Watch the fisherman come in with their nets full of exotic fish and creatures. And watch the sailboats gear up and leave for the day. We sat outside at Monsieur Br un with it’s classic red tables for a lovely and hearty breakfast. While there be sure to check out the whale motif painted along the top of the building. Another lovely stop is La Fonta ine on Victor Hugo Blvd (for either an espresso or apéro).

And finally don’t forget the hilltop villages, where one is meant to meander and wander. Here I do not have any specific recommendations other than to find a charming outdoor café, preferably one full of local folk. Something with bistro tables and metal chairs balanced on cobblestone. On a square or down a secret alley. Sit down, settle in and enjoy.

How to Order Like a Local

French coffee menus can feel spare compared to sprawling cafés elsewhere, but there is a drink for each person. Soon you’ll find your favorite.

Classic French Coffee Orders:

Café: A straight shot of espresso. If you simply say un café, this is what you’ll get. Notice the masculine “un” (as in bun) versus the feminine “une” (as in oon, like balloon).
Café Allongé: Espresso “lengthened” with hot water, softer and more sippable (like an americano)
Noisette: Espresso with a dash of warm milk or foam, named for its hazelnut hue.
Café Crème: Espresso with steamed milk and a cap of foam, like a small cappuccino.
Café au Lait: Strong coffee (often from a press) with warm milk, usually at breakfast.
Café Serré: A “tight” shot of espresso – smaller, bolder, and intense.
Décaféiné (Déca): Any of the above, without the caffeine.

When to Order What:

Morning: A café crème, café au lait, or noisette (milk-based drinks are a morning ritual).
After lunch or dinner: Straight espresso (café) or café serré, quick and strong.
Anytime, standing at the bar: A café – two sips tossed back, €1–2, and you’re on your way.
These are the general guidelines but I have been known to enjoy a cappuccino or café crème later in the afternoon, and it was brought to me with minimal fuss. The key, ultimately, is to be polite.

Don’t forget, when ordering, always, always, always begin with a greeting, bonjour (good day) or bonsoir (good evening). And follow up with a gracious please, s’il vous plaît. Even if you butcher the language the effort will be recognized and greatly appreciated.

Books to Sip With

Because words are also meant to be savored:

A Year in Pro vence by Peter Mayle
I daresay this is the bible for those of us dreaming of Provence. Mayle’s humor, wit and antics will keep you coming back for more.
The Provence Cure for the Brokenhearted by Bridget Asher
A story of grief, love, and renewal set in a centuries old stone house, a house believed to be the cure for the brokenhearted.
A Northern Light in Prov ence by Elizabeth Birkelund
A luminous, reflective novel about Norwegian translater who travels to the South of France to translate a book of poetry. She gets swept up the magic of the town and its people.

Settle in. Sip your coffee. Read your book. You, my friend, are here to savor and rest. Enjoy la vie en France.